🛏 Same island, same stops · re-planned around hotel beds

Corsica from seven hotel beds.

The same route, the same stops, a car instead of a van and not a tent in sight. Sleeping in seven bases instead of moving every night turns most days into loops — you unpack once and come back to the same bed. It costs you more money, a little more driving, and a handful of stops the van version reaches.

15days (15 + buffer)
1,472km driving
35 hbehind the wheel
64mapped stops
7hotel bases
17hikes

This is the hotel-only cut of the van version ↗ — same source film, same verified coordinates and real road routing, re-planned around beds instead of pitches. Source: Corsica | An Incredible 10-Day Road Trip ↗.

The route

Sixteen days, seven bases

Notice the shape: six of the sixteen days are closed loops that start and finish at the same hotel. That is the whole point of this version. Pick a day to isolate it, and filter the pins by what you feel like doing. Every line is the actual road, so the distances are honest — Corsica averages about 42 km/h once you are basing rather than pushing on.

Legend
selected day's drive
the other 14 days
Click any line, pin or cluster for detail. Switch to the plain basemap top-right.

Day by day

The itinerary

Seven bases over fifteen nights: Bastia ×3 + a fourth on the buffer night, Calvi ×2, Porto ×2, Ajaccio ×2, Bonifacio ×2, Zonza ×1, Corte ×2. Six of the sixteen days never change hotel, which means six mornings where you get up, get in the car and go. Every day names its bed, its hike and its parking.

How the days are timed. Every day names the time you should be checked in — usually 18:00 — and the driving is sized to hit it, because campsite receptions shut around 19:30 and hotel check-in doesn't open until 15:00. Where the evening is the point (the Calanches, the Sanguinaires), the day checks in first and goes back out. And day 16 is a deliberate buffer: night 15 is 20 minutes from the ferry, so nothing that goes wrong in the mountains can cost you the crossing.
What sleeping in hotels costs you. Eleven stops from the van version don't survive the re-plan, because they sit in valleys with no mid-budget bed within an hour: Ota, Évisa, Cristinacce, Col de Vergio, Lac de Nino, Haut-Asco, the Gorge de l'Asco, Ghisoni, Campi, Orezza and Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano — most of the deep interior. You also drive 134 km further than the van version, because loops backtrack. What you get back is fifteen nights of not looking for somewhere legal to sleep.

The seven beds

Seven bases, fifteen nights

Chosen so that every one is walkable to dinner, has parking for the car, and sits inside an hour of that day's stops. All are mid-budget — €80–200 a night in shoulder season — and each is the reason the surrounding days are shaped the way they are.

Prices are shoulder-season doubles (May–June, September) and rise steeply in August, when Bonifacio and Porto in particular need booking months out. Positions are OpenStreetMap-verified; rates and availability are not, so check before you rely on them.

On foot

Fifteen hikes and walks, easy to brutal

Where the film gives its own figures — Capo Rosso, Monte Senino, Bavella, Melo, Figarella — those are the numbers used here. Two of the van version's hikes go with the interior: Lac de Nino and Punta Muvrella above Haut-Asco. Three of what's left are hard days out. None need ropes.

HikeDistanceAscentTimeGrade
Mountain rules that matter here. Storms build over the Corsican interior in the early afternoon almost daily in summer — start at first light and be off the ridges by 14:00. There is no shade on any coastal hike: two litres of water each, minimum. Fires and off-trail camping are banned island-wide in the fire season, and the maquis burns fast.

Doing nothing

Beaches, river pools and one black shingle bay

Two kinds of swimming on this route: the white-sand postcard beaches of the south and Balagne, and the cold granite plunge pools of the interior, which are free, empty and better on a 35-degree afternoon.

Eating vegan

Corsica is hard for vegans. Here is how to do it anyway.

No point pretending otherwise: this is a cuisine built on charcuterie, brocciu, wild boar and fish, and there are exactly three fully plant-based or all-vegetarian kitchens on the whole island. Every day of the itinerary above names where to eat and, on the days when the honest answer is "carry your own", says so.

The four things that always work

1. Pizza marinara. Tomato, garlic, oregano, olive oil, no cheese — vegan by default and on the menu of every pizzeria in Corsica, of which there are hundreds. Order it by name and add sans mozzarella to be certain. This is your floor: you will never go hungry.

2. Self-catering. Village markets, greengrocers and the organic chains (Biocoop, La Vie Claire, Eau Vive) are listed day by day above. In a van this is the backbone; in hotels it is at least lunch.

3. Asking, in the right words. Say végétalien, not végétarien — in rural France the latter is widely read as "fish and lardons are fine". The sentence that works: "Je suis végétalien — sans viande, sans poisson, sans fromage, sans œufs, sans beurre. C'est possible ?" Corsicans are hospitable and will usually improvise something good.

4. Notice. Ring a mountain auberge in the morning and they will cook for you. Walk in at 20:00 and they will apologise. This matters most at Bavella, Zonza and in the Niolu.

Corsican things that happen to be vegan

Chestnut flour is the island's other staple and it is everywhere: pulenta castagnina, chestnut bread, chestnut beer. Check how the polenta is cooked — it is often finished with cheese or served under charcuterie, but the base is just flour, water and salt.

Produce is superb and cheap: tomatoes, aubergines, peppers, figs, clementines, peaches, olives, olive oil, almonds. The Île-Rousse and Ajaccio markets are the best of them.

Canistrelli, the ubiquitous biscuit, are traditionally made with white wine and oil rather than butter — many are accidentally vegan. Read the packet, as recipes vary.

Watch out for: brocciu, which is in most traditional dishes (and seasonal, roughly November to June); soupe corse, which is built on pork; figatellu, which is liver sausage; and the habit of finishing pasta and salads with cheese unless you say otherwise.

The easy days and the hard ones. Bastia (day 1) and Ajaccio are genuinely easy — between them they hold all three of the island's plant-based kitchens, so eat well and shop properly on those days. Corte is a student town and copes fine. The stretches that need planning ahead are Cap Corse, the Agriates and Saleccia (nothing at all on that beach), Piana and Arone, the Niolu, Bavella and the Alta Rocca, and the Lavezzi islands. On each of those the itinerary tells you where to shop the day before.

Every place named above and in the daily plans exists in OpenStreetMap or HappyCow at the coordinates given — none are invented. The badges record how strong the evidence is: Fully vegan means a plant-based kitchen, Vegan options means vegan dishes are confirmed, and Veg-friendly — ask means vegetarian food is on the menu and vegan is a conversation. Menus change and small places close, so phone ahead where it matters.

Car logistics

Getting there, and getting round

Ferry outToulon → Bastia
Corsica Ferries, overnight, about 11–12 hours, docking in Bastia in the morning. A car plus two passengers is roughly €120–200 one way in shoulder season — ferries price by vehicle length, so this is where a car saves you real money over a van. Book a cabin.
Or don't take a car at alloften the cheaper answer
Fly to Bastia, Calvi, Ajaccio or Figari and hire on arrival. Fifteen days of a small car in shoulder season runs about €450–650, against roughly €300 of return ferry for your own. Add flights and it's usually a wash on money and a clear win on time — you skip two overnight crossings. Book the car the moment you book the flight; the island genuinely runs out in August.
Ferry backBastia → Livorno
If you did bring the car: four hours instead of twelve, usually cheaper, and it puts you in Tuscany. Savona, Genoa, Nice and Marseille are the alternatives. A different port out and back costs nothing extra.
Speed and distancethe number that ruins plans
1,582 km over 16 days is 37 hours of moving time — an average of 43 km/h. That is 134 km more than the van version, which is the honest price of basing: loops backtrack. Two hours of mapped driving is a half-day here. The heaviest days are 12 (144 km, beaches then the Ospedale) and 13 (171 km, Bavella to Corte).
What a car changes
Most of the van version's warnings simply evaporate. The D81 through the Calanches de Piana — its single worst pinch point — is just a spectacular drive in a car. So are the D253 to Barcaggio, the D268 to Bavella and the D71 through the Castagniccia. Parking near beaches and in old towns gets dramatically easier.
What a car doesn't change
Restonica (D623) is still closed beyond the Pont de Tragone after the 2023 storms — shuttle only, booked in advance, for everyone.
The Saleccia piste is still a 12 km 4x4 track that voids hire agreements: take the boat.
The Roccapina track is still 3.5 km of rock and ruts, and a low-slung hire car will ground out — park at the top and walk.
Fuel in the interior is still scarce and shut on Sundays. Never cross the mountains below half a tank.
Booking
The trade-off of this version: you are committed. Fourteen nights across seven hotels have to be booked in advance, and in July–August Bonifacio and Porto want months of notice. A van lets you change your mind at 5 p.m.; this does not. Book the two Bonifacio nights and the two Porto nights first — they are the constraints everything else bends around.
The buffer dayday 16 does nothing on purpose
The plan is fifteen days of content and sixteen days away. Night 15 is spent 20 minutes from the ferry gate, and day 16 has nothing in it that matters. Corsica will take a day off you sooner or later — a storm on the Bavella road, a puncture on the D81, a hike that runs three hours over, a ferry that reschedules — and the alternative to a buffer is that the missing day comes out of the crossing you already paid for. If nothing goes wrong, you get the Castagniccia and a calm morning. That is not a wasted day; it is the cheapest insurance on the trip.
Check-in windowsthe constraint most plans ignore
Corsican campsite receptions typically run 08:00–12:00 and 15:00–19:30, and close earlier at altitude and outside July–August; hotels check in from 15:00 and out by 10:00–11:00. So two rules shape every day here. Don't plan to arrive late: every day carries a "be at your bed by" time, generally 18:00, and the driving is sized to hit it. Don't plan to arrive early either: your room is not ready at 09:00, which is why day one leaves the bags at reception and goes walking. These windows are typical, not promises — confirm yours, especially if you will land after 19:00.
Sunsets need checking in first
Three of the best hours of this trip are after 20:30: the Calanches de Piana, the Îles Sanguinaires and the tower at Nonza. Late May sunset is around 21:00 and no reception is taking an arrival then. Each of those days is built to check in first and go back out — the pitch or the room is already yours, so coming back at 22:00 costs nothing.
When to go
May–June is what the film shows: waterfalls at full flow, snow still on Cinto, sea around 19 °C, hotels with space and shoulder rates. September trades the waterfalls for a warm sea. July–August doubles every room rate on this page and fills them anyway.
Three travellers, one route
Nature & hiking days: 5, 6, 7, 9, 13, 14. Beach & chill days: 3, 11, 12, plus the afternoons of 4 and 7. Towns & culture days: 1, 2, 8, 10. Basing makes splitting up easy: on day 14 one of you can take the Restonica shuttle for Melo while the other keeps Corte's citadel and a long lunch, and you meet at the hotel.

What it costs

Budget: two people, sixteen days, car and hotels

Shoulder-season estimate, mid-budget, eating out most evenings.

ItemAssumptionTotal
Ferry, returnToulon→Bastia overnight + Bastia→Livorno, car, 2 people, 1 cabin€300
Hotels15 nights across 7 bases, average €125 B&B€1,875
Fuel≈1,700 km with detours, 6.5 L/100 km, €1.95/L€215
Lunches & groceries€22/day × 16 — picnics on hiking days€352
Dinners out14 × €60 for two (one half-board night at Zonza)€840
BoatsScandola/Girolata, Lavezzi, Saleccia shuttle€160
Entries, parking, shuttlesRestonica navetta, Filitosa, Aleria, Cucuruzzu, beach and town parking€165
Total for two≈ €122 per person per day€3,907

That is €1,302 more than the van version's €2,605 — about 50% dearer, essentially all of it the difference between €28 pitches and €125 rooms. Flying in and hiring a car instead of bringing your own removes the €300 ferry and adds roughly €450–650, so budget a further €150–350 depending on flight prices.

Pack for two climates